Dru-120c Driver For Mac

Strange one this. I have used Verbatim DVD+R 16x certified media for ages - no problem. Recently burns have appeared to burn & verify OK but when I try putiing the media back into the drive it says that the disc is blank. However it can't be as I'm unable to write to it again. Old disks written by this drive read fine. I uninstalled all the buring S/W on my pc. Problem still occured, ie.

My Pioneer 1110D (Lastest F/W) will not read disks it had recently written to. If I open 'My Computer' in windows with no dvd's in the drive then the label on both says 'DVD-RW' (E) & 'DVD-RW' (F) respectfully. However If I put one of the recently written to DVD's into Drive 'F' which is an Asus 0402P/D then the drive reads the disk fine & The Disk label shows up in 'My Computer ' with the title of the disc changed to the current disc.If I remove the Disc & put in back into the Pioneer 'E' Drive then then the drive spins up, the light flashes, then nothing. If I go to 'My Computer' then look at the drive then I notice that the label had changed to 'CD Drive' (E).

Jun 19, 2007  Can anyone help on this one please - Pioneer 110D + Reply to Thread. Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last. It looks to me like the motherboard chipset drivers are screwed. Looking at the spec for your. BTW I also have a Sony DRU-120C which came with next to latest firmware with which it burns wonderfully, and I'll not update unless problems arise with. When you install Microsoft Windows on your Mac, Boot Camp Assistant automatically opens the Boot Camp installer, which installs the latest Windows support software (drivers).If that doesn't happen, or you experience any of the following issues while using Windows on your Mac, follow the steps in this article.

If double click on this to open the DVD I get 'E: is not accessible' & under that it says 'Incorrect function'. I have had the Pioneer for a year & have burnt DVD's most days - could it be worn out.Also my Verbatim disks burnt on other people PC's seem to work!Please can anyone give me any advise or help? Go to control panelsystemharware. Click device manager. Uninstall the ide controller for the channel where the drive is connected.

Windows will detect the ide controller and reinstall it. Try readibg a disk in your 110d nowthis may or may not solve the problem.

Airtel subscriber enrollment form india. But in most cases it doesalso try cleaning the laser lens on the 110d. Either by hand using a cotton bud (requires the drive to be removed from pc and the outer casing removed) or use a commercially available cd/dvd lens cleaning disk. I did as you said & I have three Primary IDE Channels, 3 Secondary Channels & 3 Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controllers!

Also try cleaning the laser lens on the 110d. I Put this DVD+R in the Pioneer & it read & does disc info!I'll now do as you ask & put it in the Asus: -I then insert a newer disk into the Pioneer the drive spins up, the light flashes, then an empty window opens saying 'CD Drive' (E). If I go to 'My Computer' then look at the drive then I notice that the label had changed to 'CD Drive' (E). So I move the disc to the Asus Drive & do a disk info I get the following!I tried a verbatim 16x from 2005 that reads OK on both drives.????????????

Perhaps I have a bad batch of discs? I also just gave a friend a recently written Verbatim 16x DVD+R disc that won't read on either of my drives & he has no problem reading it?????????? I just went out & bought some Sony 16x DVD-R I burnt a disc on the Pioneer. It writes & reads them but the data below looks dodgy! When I burnt the Disk the drive seemed to keep revving up & it took a while to write the lead-in. I just went out & bought some Sony 16x DVD-R I burnt a disc on the Pioneer. It writes & reads them but the data below looks dodgy!

When I burnt the Disk the drive seemed to keep revving up & it took a while to write the lead-in. Could this point to something?I reckon I need a new drive??????? NOPE.You need a reliable drive for scanning!!! Surely that is a contradiction!Nope - (I take it I don't need a new drive)You need a reliable drive for scanning!!! ( I need a new drive???????)Have also found out that some discs are not being finalized????????? I have a Sony DRU-810A DVD+-RW DL Drive and I have the exact same problem. Sometimes when I try to burn a disk, the drive will spin up to write the lead-in but then will not spin back up to write the data.

This effectively ruining the disk, and causing it to make the drive read as CD-Drive when the disk is inserted to be read. Though my other Lite-ON dvd-rom drive reads the disk just fine, it will not read in a standalone dvd player. I did some tinkering, as in wasting a lot of disks, and found out that writing at 4x speed eliminates this strange malfunction in my drive. I do not understand it, but sometimes it will write at 16x just fine, and other times it does this weird thing. My only suggestion is to write at 4x or maybe even slower to get rid of your strange problem.

Usually taking 20 minutes a piece instead of taking 4 minutes a piece is worth it if you arent wasting disks.I tried updating my firmware to the latest and it did not do much. I had already, before visiting this forum, uninstalled my IDE controllers and rebooted and this had no effect as well. Being an A+ computer tech I have exhausted all possibilities that I could think of, short of taking the drive apart to clean the lens and test the motor, and I havent changed my problem at all. My only guess in my drive is that the algorithm designated to revving up the drive is flawed in some way.

I can write at 4x because the drive does not need to spin as fast, but when it to write at 8-16x the drive does not want to rev up.Anyway, I hope this helps you out with your drive problem. Though having to burn slower sucks, if it helps it helps! Can't change the programming or the motor inside a dvd drive, nor can you replace a faulty IDE controller, aside from getting a PCI based one. I will try to keep track of the forum for a bit to see if this helps at all.

Try the drive in another system. If it works there, then the drive is okay, and there's a problem in your system. If the drive doesn't work in other system, then the drive is bad. Are the DVD drives connected to PCI IDE or to either primary or secondary IDE? In another thread I read most PCI IDEs were designed for hard drives and may cause problems if optical drives are connected to them. Try connecting DVD drives to primary or secondary IDE if not already connected there to see if that helps.

FYI shows Pioneer DVR-710 (DVR-111) for $25 after rebate or $15 after rebate with Google checkout if you decide to replace the drive. I have a Sony DRU-810A DVD+-RW DL Drive and I have the exact same problem. Sometimes when I try to burn a disk, the drive will spin up to write the lead-in but then will not spin back up to write the data. This effectively ruining the disk, and causing it to make the drive read as CD-Drive when the disk is inserted to be read. Though my other Lite-ON dvd-rom drive reads the disk just fine, it will not read in a standalone dvd player. I did some tinkering, as in wasting a lot of disks, and found out that writing at 4x speed eliminates this strange malfunction in my drive. I do not understand it, but sometimes it will write at 16x just fine, and other times it does this weird thing.

My only suggestion is to write at 4x or maybe even slower to get rid of your strange problem. Usually taking 20 minutes a piece instead of taking 4 minutes a piece is worth it if you arent wasting disks.I tried updating my firmware to the latest and it did not do much. I had already, before visiting this forum, uninstalled my IDE controllers and rebooted and this had no effect as well. Being an A+ computer tech I have exhausted all possibilities that I could think of, short of taking the drive apart to clean the lens and test the motor, and I havent changed my problem at all. My only guess in my drive is that the algorithm designated to revving up the drive is flawed in some way. I can write at 4x because the drive does not need to spin as fast, but when it to write at 8-16x the drive does not want to rev up.Anyway, I hope this helps you out with your drive problem.

Though having to burn slower sucks, if it helps it helps! Can't change the programming or the motor inside a dvd drive, nor can you replace a faulty IDE controller, aside from getting a PCI based one. I will try to keep track of the forum for a bit to see if this helps at all. Your SONY drive is a rebadged BENQ 1640.

You can try crossflashing the drive to the official BENQ firmware to see if that helps. Here's some links you can read on crossflashing your drive. Zee 5 download. I've crossflashed many OEM rebadged BENQ 1620, 1640, 1650 & 1655 drives.If you're looking to try a pci controller card get one that has the ite 8212 chipset. Promise chipset controller cards will not work correctly with a dvd burner.

You can also get one with the silicon image 680 chipset but in my experience the ite 8212 chipset is better for dvd burners. Last resort is to try your drive in another computer. I am not so inclined to attempt to flash programs onto my hardware if I am not 100% sure they will work. I am typically weary of flashing anything if the hardware does not tell me itself that it wants a flash upgrade. Or.if it comes with a program where I can check for upgrades automatically.

My drive works, I just cannot write any higher than 4x when writing dvd's. I do not want to possibly kill my drive just to burn in 4 minutes instead of 13. What brand of dvd media are you using? Find out the media id by using cd/dvd speed,. Brand names mean nothing, it's the media id which will tell you what manufacturer makes the discs. If you haven't tried using VERBATIM or TAIYO YUDEN discs try it and see what happens. If you continue to have the same problems then it's time to buy a new dvd burner.I've crossflashed many dvd burners and I'm just a hobbyist with computers and dvd burners.

I've never had any failed flashing of hardware. So some researching at the BENQ FORUM at Cdfreaks.com you'll see how easy it is to crossflash your drive. IMHO SONY drives suck when it comes to firmware upgrades.

Your rebadged BENQ 1640 would do better IMHO with the official BENQ firmware. BENQ always had frequent firmware upgrades to match the newer dvd media.

Too bad LITEON bought out BENQ's optical division. What brand of dvd media are you using?

Find out the media id by using cd/dvd speed,. Brand names mean nothing, it's the media id which will tell you what manufacturer makes the discs.

If you haven't tried using VERBATIM or TAIYO YUDEN discs try it and see what happens. If you continue to have the same problems then it's time to buy a new dvd burner.I've crossflashed many dvd burners and I'm just a hobbyist with computers and dvd burners. I've never had any failed flashing of hardware. So some researching at the BENQ FORUM at Cdfreaks.com you'll see how easy it is to crossflash your drive. IMHO SONY drives suck when it comes to firmware upgrades. Your rebadged BENQ 1640 would do better IMHO with the official BENQ firmware. BENQ always had frequent firmware upgrades to match the newer dvd media.

Too bad LITEON bought out BENQ's optical division. I get an MCC 004 which if i have gathered my research correctly means it is a verbatim disk? What criteria do you use to determine when updates are needed, and has the Sony drive been updated with Sony firmware since you're hesitant to cross flash? I have a LiteOn external burner that wouldn't burn those same Playos with original firmware and created over 60% coasters with Verbatim 8x -R media.

Firmware update on the LiteOn resulted in very good burns with no more coasters on all media tried including the cheap Playos. You may need a firmware update and not ever realize it. Also most drives can be back flashed to previous version if you're unhappy with current version.Case in point that very LiteOn still wouldn't burn the Playos without making many coasters with latest firmware, but flash back to next latest firmware resulted in good burn results on Playos too.

Failure to update firmware could be contributing to problems which may mean there's no help for your problem as long as you fail to take good advice offered. What criteria do you use to determine when updates are needed, and has the Sony drive been updated with Sony firmware since you're hesitant to cross flash?

I have a LiteOn external burner that wouldn't burn those same Playos with original firmware and created over 60% coasters with Verbatim 8x -R media. Firmware update on the LiteOn resulted in very good burns with no more coasters on all media tried including the cheap Playos. You may need a firmware update and not ever realize it. Also most drives can be back flashed to previous version if you're unhappy with current version.Case in point that very LiteOn still wouldn't burn the Playos without making many coasters with latest firmware, but flash back to next latest firmware resulted in good burn results on Playos too. Failure to update firmware could be contributing to problems which may mean there's no help for your problem as long as you fail to take good advice offered. I should have already stated in a previous post that I am using the latest firmware.

I updated it after probably the 3rd or 4th failed disk burn from like 1.0d to 1.0f. Still a 1.0 version but i would assume that somewhere from b to f they did something different. Reguardless of what the difference from b to f is, it did not solve my problem. I wont cross flash because it seems from reading the posts on it that it is dangerous, and like i've said already.it isnt worth ruining a drive to burn 4x faster.and, first off, I see no point in back flashing it seeing as i did an update from d to f with no change at all in performance or 'coaster' making. Secondly, I would not have replied to the first post directed at my problem if I was not willing to 'take good advice' that is offered to me.

I am always willing to learn and as well always wanting to fix annoying quirks in my hardware. If you are not going to read all of my posts before assuming that I am just not paying attention.then I have no need for your critisism or assistance.edit: (hidden deeply in my original post.or possibly the first line in the second paragraph. Same thing!). Indeed, a good follow-up question!

I was not trying to infer that I had done everything suggested. Just that I was trying. This is a Crappy E-Machines computer that isnt mine. It is my dads. Though when I go to his place, I burn dvd's for him. I have no doubt that the IDE cables need replacing.To be honest I just posted on this page so that the guy who originally posted could try slowing his speed down. I didnt read anywhere that he had tried different speeds than his max speed.

This isnt a problem that any of us here ever cared to solve by having to spend money. Though IDE cables are not that expensive, and an option that I will probably try. And yes, i have cleaned the connectors already. It seems I got slwtx2003 posts confused with that of the OP who didn't say anything about firmware update, and I don't know if the OP resolved his problem since he's not posted after 4/2/07. Latest firmware isn't necessarily best firmware as evidenced by my LiteOn experience in my 6/12 post, and I'd try 1 or 2 other firmwares if I were in slwtx2003's circumstance. It may or may not be the solution, but it couldn't hurt to try it.

BTW I also have a Sony DRU-120C which came with next to latest firmware with which it burns wonderfully, and I'll not update unless problems arise with current firmware.